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Fashion

Calvin Klein Returns

The most anticipated runway show on the New York Fashion Week calendar, Calvin Klein.  After several years off the schedule the iconic label announced a new collection would be shown from a new creative head.  Veronica Leoni, the Italian designer took charge of the famed brand.  Calvin Klein transcended fashion, from jeans, slogans, scents, ads and commercials, the New York clothier became a part of the cultural landscape. 

Mixing minimalism, athleticism and sensuality a Calvin Klein became one of the top fashion brands in the world.

I’m a sexual person, and that’s reflected in my clothes and my advertisements. Calvin Klein

After selling the company to PVH in 2002, Klein stepped away from the fashion world.  Raf Simons briefly took the helm from 2016 to 2018.  What looked like a perfect fit on paper, soon became a slow-moving clash between creative vision and corporate reality, the Belgium designer left.  After the departure, Calvin Klein stopped presenting runway shows. Instead corporate heads focused on the lucrative under garments, accessories and perfume lines.

Now, Veronica is at bat, the first female to head CK.  The former Celine and The Row designer has the task of breathing new life into the iconic fifty-seven year old clothier. 

I would like to praise the looks but for one reason or another, the feeling of confusion enters my head.   The gender mixed show included shapes and colors that came across as robotic inspired.  The lack of fluid sexuality for a brand known for sex appeal got lost in the modern translation. Where were the bodies? The masculinity. The femininity. 

The streamlined vertical aesthetic took a turn in Leoni’s interpretation. Taken away to the closet replaced with added addendums fitting the times: slouchy jackets with elongated sleeves.

Was this a great collection from Calvin Klein? I expect to see a more concise line the next time.

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Fashion

On Change in Fashion

Change is inevitable, in the fashion business, change is often.  The news from New York took the industry by surprise.  Calvin Klein announced the appointment of Veronica Leoni as creative head, the female to lead he label.  The brand plans to return to the runway schedule.  Why this change of strategy?   Parent company owner PVH withdrew the fifty-six-year-old designer brand from the ready-to-wear runway shows, instead focusing on the label’s core sellers, underwear and jeans.

Little is known about Leoni other than the Italian designer worked for Celine and Jil Sander.  Calvin Klein was once the crown of the fashion world with is minimal sensuality built around youth.  Can Veronica Leoni bring the buzz back to an once New York Fashion Week marque? Curious choices are interesting. 

Veronica Leoni from Calvin Klein
Calvin Klein’s Veronica Leoni

The other news of the day report came from Paris.  The Grand Dame of fashion labels released a statement stating Virginie Viard would resign as head of the Paris based house. After five years at the position inherited from Karl Lagerfeld.  After 30 years with the brand Virginie’s stay comes to an end. What was the reason?  Chanel plays its hand close to its chest. There were no rumors of strife or lower sales.  The company recently paid big dividends to its owners. 

However, Viard has some big shoes to fill.  The larger-than-life Lagerfeld left his mark on the prestigious womenswear line. His magnificent shows, the sardonic wit filled pages of fashion reports.  While The headline adverse French born designer was competent the grandiose excitement seemed missing.  The airport runway sets or the multimillion-dollar celebrity commercials disappeared after 2019.  After all, Chanel is really about classy sensations.

It is only halfway through 2024.

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Fashion

Raf is gone from CK

It should have been easy, 

Where did it go wrong? 

When I read Raf Simons exited as head of Calvin Klein I was not shocked. After reviewing his first collection for the NY minimal brand. I felt relieved. Do not get me wrong. I am a fan of Mr. Simons. His looks for Jil Sander as well for his eponymous label were inspiring. The chic linear aesthetics are still personal favorites. However, after a brief stint at Dior, a mismatch in my opinion, Simons seemed a perfect fit to head Calvin Klein. Both designer and label embraced minimalism, clean lines. Sadly, the seemingly perfect couple never really bonded. Only after 2 years, 4 collections, the gig ended after broken promises lost in traslations cultural problems.

As I said, after seeing the first runway show, I asked myself, did Raf find inspiration in second hand stores of New York City? With a back log of creative references since the brand’s founding in 1968, there was a wealth of material to draw upon. “What comes between me and my Calvin’s? Absolutely nothing”, was the immortal slogan from Brook Shields. The 90’s were about Mark Wahlberg in his undies. CK has always been a brand about overt sexuality. Strangely,  the Team Simons looks felt like a parody on the heritage, lacking elegance, a trashy commentary on modern style.

But,

The rebranding with “Calvin Klein” adorned on every piece of clothing in an attempt for the streetwear market felt out of place. As the designs reached out for one type of buyer, others left. Not even a Kardashian campaign helped, sales dropped. Having invested millions, parent company PVH experienced a conniption seeing sales fall for a once iconic brand. Emanuel ‘s experiment of a cerebral designer, together with an iconic  American Ready to Wear House became a failed project.

I am sympathetic to Raf.  He is the latest creative head to exit a major house. Designers are burning out at a faster pace than in the past. The bottom line focus raises questions concerning creative workloads. Are the pressures of the modern fashion business too much? Desiging 6 collections in one year, over seeing accessories, press conferences, could tax the most energetic person.

Raf Simons will bounce back. The exceptionally talented always do.

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Fashion

Raf Simons at Calvin Klein

Raf Simons made his debut at Calvin Klein during NYWFW.  I can honestly say I had no clue what was going on concerning the collection.  An iconic American brand in need of restart Mr. Simons with his pedigree was suppose to give a boast to the label,  make it Chic Again.

Simons first collection is a bit of everything looking for direction.  CK has been a brand known for minimalism, sexuality, and denim.

His interpretation of denim is to make it like a rigid Catholic School uniform.  The Minimalistic  looks were like crayons out of a box, a bit of a mess. The Sexy looks were more vulgar with the Nude Sheer Shirts for men.

I have high hopes for the designer even if this collection was a bit of a  misfire feeling like a vintage reworking. Raf’s  work at Jil Sander and his own label were the stuff of legends.

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Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Looks and Collections 2016 images by Canon Ixus

Menswear  in Milan was about comfortable, breezy fabrics with touches of sex appeal.

Cifonelli decided if a man is going to be sophisticated, be sophisticated.

 

 

Trussardi defined the masculine shape in the forms of pieces representing leisure .

 

 

Larusmiani took inspiration from the Rat Pack with pastel colors and informal forms.

 

Ermanno Scervino decided on the informal with colors, stripes, and prints

 

Brunello Cucinelli looks were more manly man urban for taking a coffee at a chic sidewalk cafe.

 

Luca Larenza had a Mexican motif his collection of sweaters and t-shirts

 

Calvin Klein stayed true to its minimalistic DNA with understated coolness.

 

All images by Canon Camera Ixus.48414_Canon-Digital-Ixus-100-IS-12-Megapixel-Kamera-im-Edelstahlgehaeuse-30686_xxl