Paris Fashion Week Men 2019 is all about the being a more low key this season. As I go over the collections, I notice the frivolity is out. In it is place is what men will or can wear. Accessories are also making a strong statement this season.
For the very few who can afford to buy Hermes Menswear this collection would be well worth the price. Veronique Nichanian’s outer wear pieces were the highlights. Leather pants and suits made for a the man driving an expensive car on the Rivera. I would have to sell a kidney to afford the hoodie jacket in look #34.
Rochas has made a welcomed return to menswear with Frederio Curradi at the helm. He decided no to go over the top but in a subtle direction, with an Earthy color palette. the looks reminded one romantic continental artist complete with beret. My favorite is look #5. If you had an intellectual lover, you would want him to dress like this.
Tom Browne is one of those mad genius creative types, but not tortured. I expected different and he did not disappoint. Elongated stripes and gray looks at times felt like costumes from a 20’s decadent play. Look #18, solid pants, checkerboard blue and white coat and jacket, and sweater gave me energy.
White Mountaineering offered layers, then more layers, All was about statements, one piece or all together. The collection lived up to the mountain name, oversized protection from the elements. I did not have a favorite look because I cannot imagine myself wearing one.
Loewe entered the runway fray with its first show. At times the collection felt more conceptual than wearable but Jonathan Anderson pulled some looks and pieces out of the hat. The wide pants loose shirts, extra reach sleeves were front and center. Look #43 carried the day in my opinion. I would wear each piece as a whole or separate.
Kris Van Assche’s debut at Berluti proved to be the right shot in the arm for the brand. The opening look, a head turning brown leather suit, said, “Menswear look out”. If wear this suit one time, once would be enough.
The collection from Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton proved he is going in the right direction, more focused, fun. LVMH showed brilliance in hiring him. The flay pants were front and center of collection that moved from gray, black to print tops. Look #41, a streetwear look made up of pleated pants with white print shirt is an eye catcher.
Balmain showed 98 looks. Where to start? Olivier Rousteing had a lot to say this season. Black was the basis of the collection. Thrown in were leather, knitwear’s, and denim, all for the club life. Look #19, a black sweater with white breton stripes along with black pants would be my Friday night outfit.
I liked the Dries Van Noten collection.”Wearable” is the term that I can apply with pride. A narrow color palette enhanced the menswear line influenced by music, tailored with emphasis on the waist. Pants came in on the flare and slim side but the tops stood out.