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On John Galliano back to Dior

A snippet from the Before Tacky podcast with filmmaker Kevin Macdonald about fashion designer John Galliano. Rumours have hit the fashion gossip circuit the once former creative head of Dior is set for a return to the famed house. Click below to understand why we think this story feels a bit false.

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Fashion

More Zara Than Luxury

 Luxury industry has adopted the same appalling production model as their fast fashion counterparts. Today, Dior faces charges of exploitative production practices. As the lust for high end products grew the business model changed to satisfy consumer wants. Mass consumption means mass production.  Luxury went from exclusive to inclusive.  Many highly sort after brands morphed into glorified Zaras.

Big fashion companies are integrated entities with huge supply chains needing products to sell. Big profit margins at the expense of quality, the product will suffer from a bottom line decision.  As many shoppers are learning, perhaps the pricey handbag may not be worth the extravagantly inflated price tag. 

Almost on every corner in major cities there is a luxury brand.  In London, seven Louis Vuitton stores are north of the Thames. Buyers fooled themselves into believing they had entitled admittance to a club, when in reality they had been conned.   As the headlines from Italy continue to roll, shock is turning to outrage.   A 56 euros bag selling at 2800 euros rankles. On social media, opinions range from disappointment to disgust. One Korean YouTube Blogger reported local customers are going to the Dior Store asking for their money back or returning bags purchased in the past few weeks.

The Saddle Bag HMMM!

Dior Saddle Bag
Dior Saddle Bag

Does anyone remember when the French House was giving away thousands of Saddle Bags in 2018 to online celebs? As influencers peddled luxury wares, none asked serious obvious questions concerning production techniques or quality. Brand chasers just take the gift, no questions asked.  Watching video after video from “tastemakers” many have labeled accessories in their backgrounds while telling followers about being disillusioned with Dior.  Life is cruel. Stylists loved posting big label overpriced bags on Instagram feeds. Why do brands burn excess unsold stock? Missed clues. Maybe what they were making was not as valuable as we were led to believe.   As an editor I favoured small brands.  The teams have a family feel with real knowledge of their products and production process.

When searching for validation by buying an expensive handbag, let the buyer beware.

Categories
Fashion

How Much? The Dior Markup

The expression “a sucker is born every minute” applies to luxury fashion these days.  Paris label Dior knows the world wants to belong to the bourgeois club.  Buying an expensive handbag is an arm reach into another social circle.  Emotions of supreme consumption in boutiques satisfies those temporary upward mobility urges was not lost by the fashion’s profit driven machine.

The world’s largest opulent entity, LVMH, learned how to make the desirable more accessible by making it more scarce while producing cheaper products.  A business model earning billions every year. 

When the Italian authorities announced the seizure of a factory producing Dior bag in sweat shop conditions.  Many laborers were illegal.  Beds were in the factory enabling 24-hour production.   According to reports the production site was sourced to produce handbags for the French brand.  Certainly, raised eyebrows hit the ceiling after the announcement of the cost of producing one handbag, 57 euros. The more surprising news is the end price for the aspirational buyer, 2750 euros.  That is a markup of nearly fifty times the production cost. In comparison, an Apple iPhone’s markup cost is double the manufactured price.

Admittedly, this author was not shocked by the news.  During Pitti Uomo, a tannery colleague with a factory located in the same area of LVMH’s facilities told me there were many questionable production techniques involved in the company’s workings. This is not the first time Louis Vuitton has been hit by authorities concerning production. In 2010 UK Advertising Standards Authority banned two misleading ads concerning handmade bags when in reality they were machine made.

At the time of writing the seized factory is under control of the prosecutors.

The next time gazing in front of a Dior window with frivolous desires, remember the quote: “People don’t want the truth because they don’t want the illusions destroyed.”

Categories
Fashion

Hi Tops from Dior

I looked over the Dior Pre-Fall Collection. Kim Jones continues to lean to streetwear for inspiration.  His commercial instincts are solid. Luxury labels must court new buyers to stay relevant.  I am not sure where the line is drawn between courting and desperate attempt.  

Dior meets Air Jordans from the Pre Fall Collection.

The new Nike Air Jordan hi-top crosses the border. The association reminds me of an LA Swap Meet stall. I do understand the inspiration other than some street credibility. In all honesty, it takes tacky to an overpriced level. For many reasons this type of cross over collaboration reminds me of Pierre Cardin licensing products in the 1980’s. Where did that end?

Lastly, with all certainty, this new sneaker will have millions of fake copies in a matter of weeks. On sale at the Swap Meet for 29.99. 

Categories
Fashion

Works of ART

A GREAT BAG is not an item but a work of timeless art.  These brands are not a purchase but an investment in craftsmanship.

https://youtu.be/im_Ux8RoMPQ

 

https://youtu.be/-7Unh-RCWXY

https://youtu.be/JlXdElMOYuI

Categories
Beauty

FABULOSITY

New Year’s celebrations means letting out your inner FABULOSITY!

This is a time to use color to express your optimism for the New Year.

Chanel

Dior

All of these items are available in stores worldwide.

Categories
Fashion

Paris Fashion Week Couture

Black and Paper media partner France 24 covers Couture Week with highlights including looks from Chanel.

Couture In Paris

Categories
Technology

Christmas Gifts for under the tree

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Smeg Blender

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Shinola Journal Set with Leather Cover

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Farbod Barsum Pirarucu Tote

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Mark Giusti Pinted silk twill bow tie

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Tiffany & Co. Ziegfeld Collection bracelet of freshwater cultured pearls with a silver clasp

Xtorm PowerBank

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Republic Custom Designed Bike

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A vacation to Northern Brazil, Olinda

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Etro Scarf

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Statement Pink Socks for Men

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Monopoly Chocolate Edition Game

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Etnia Barcelona Gold Sunglasses

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Georg Jensen Helena Coffee Press

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Hasselblad Medium Format Camera

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Turel Travel Bag from Bally

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Veuve Clicquot Vintage Champagne

 

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‘Backstage Brushes’ Travel Brush Collection from Dior