During Milan Fashion Week in February 2025, Korean Designers showed off their styles at the HUB. Rick Li, head of Seoul Fashion Week talks about style, looks and K-Pop influences. Ensemble:Voices of Korea is the title of collaboration from the global fashion capitals.
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The Met Gala, the fashion world’s biggest Red Carpet sailed into New York City on raining day. The yearly first Monday in May event has morphed into celebrity media circus where A listers throng the stairs for photographers to raise money for the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The evening presided over by Vogue Editor Anna Wintour placed Black fashion on a glossy stage. This year’s theme, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style was inspired by the African American Fashion.
I think the memo go lost in junk mails. Instead of being inspired, the looks came across as Gothic. Was there a will reading before or after the party? Then there was the other extreme of monochromatic white. I guess prints and color made the “not to do” list.
African American fashion has been influenced by a “we are not you” tradition with a sense of pride, dignity while existing in a hostile place. Clothes were a way of quiet expression against societal oppression. Dressing up was a form of telling the world we are human beings.
The sanitised interpretations of style felt overly calculated, all ready for the global press. For some it was about the optics, even if the look lacked imagination. Diana Ross in white with a 5.5 metered train took control or Andre 3000 with a piano on his back felt a little bit too attention seeking. Co-host, singer and LV menswear designer Pharrell played it safe to the edge of a yawn in a white jacket. Coleman Domingo showed his flair with an oversized flower on his black and white stripped jacket. Zendaya’s all white suit, fine, but not a knock out look from the Fashion Diva. On the other end, Teyana got it right with help from Oscar winner Ruth E. Carter.
The Met Gala 2025, inspiring would be a stretch, using the word “trivialising”, too harsh. I could settle for a mild mannered attempt at putting Black Style front and center.
If you are really inspired by Black Fashion, check out reruns of Soul Train on YouTube. To see live original unrestrained Black Dandy style, attend Pitti Uomo in Florence.
During Pitti Uomo in Florence, Bologna based Victor Hart explained his denim look. The Ghana born designer is a craftsman when it comes to fabric but especially loves the versatile material.
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From Florence Italy during Pitti Uomo, this spontaneous podcast happened while walking to another appointment. I met Felipe Fiallo while the Italian shoe designer was discussing his collection.
I grabbed a tablet, then asked him to go over his footwear designs.
Designer Victor Hart from Bologna gave a fast interview about his denim line. Stay tuned for the video story.
The most anticipated runway show on the New York Fashion Week calendar, Calvin Klein. After several years off the schedule the iconic label announced a new collection would be shown from a new creative head. Veronica Leoni, the Italian designer took charge of the famed brand. Calvin Klein transcended fashion, from jeans, slogans, scents, ads and commercials, the New York clothier became a part of the cultural landscape.
Mixing minimalism, athleticism and sensuality a Calvin Klein became one of the top fashion brands in the world.
After selling the company to PVH in 2002, Klein stepped away from the fashion world. Raf Simons briefly took the helm from 2016 to 2018. What looked like a perfect fit on paper, soon became a slow-moving clash between creative vision and corporate reality, the Belgium designer left. After the departure, Calvin Klein stopped presenting runway shows. Instead corporate heads focused on the lucrative under garments, accessories and perfume lines.
Now, Veronica is at bat, the first female to head CK. The former Celine and The Row designer has the task of breathing new life into the iconic fifty-seven year old clothier.
I would like to praise the looks but for one reason or another, the feeling of confusion enters my head. The gender mixed show included shapes and colors that came across as robotic inspired. The lack of fluid sexuality for a brand known for sex appeal got lost in the modern translation. Where were the bodies? The masculinity. The femininity.
The streamlined vertical aesthetic took a turn in Leoni’s interpretation. Taken away to the closet replaced with added addendums fitting the times: slouchy jackets with elongated sleeves.
Was this a great collection from Calvin Klein? I expect to see a more concise line the next time.
Today another creative head departed from a big house. Keeping up with who is where, for how long is getting harder. This time Sabato De Sarno “quit” Gucci after only two years. It is no secret the Italian Fashion House has struggled in the past years. Sales have fallen to the point of panic for parent company Kering as buyers turn to other labels.
Kim Jones walked away from Dior. The shocking news came right after presenting his latest collection in Paris for menswear week. The British born designer made a mark at the top of the heritage house with a modern interpretation of tailored pieces.
There was a time in the fashion business when longevity matter, not anymore. Taking the job as a head designer should come with a stylish 48 hour bag.
A quick conversation on fashion from Florence at Pitti Uomo with Ilario Esposito and Taiwo Meghoma.
@blackandpaper A fashion and style report from Florence. #pittiuomo #menswear #styletips #mensfashiontips #suits
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From Milan Fashion Week Men, luxury fashion brand Brett Johnson showed off a new collection with a new slant on details using lavish materials.
