During Pitti Uomo Menswear show in January 2025, while walking around the halls, a Japanese handbag brand with an almost sculpture quality grabbed my eye, Yuhaku. The hand dyed turquoise blue and fine leather stood out. The luxury connection gleamed while I looked over the tote bag’s fine stitching, and smooth finishes.
After a few of my normal questions concerning the background of the brand. Designer Tomohiro Nakagaki and I had a conversation on design in the bustling concourse.
As luxury shoppers’ question opulent labels there are many rakish alternatives. Making a style statement is not about a monogram but confidence. A Yuhaku piece draws attention to the style choice of the wearer.
A Black and Paper interview with Tomohiro Nakagaki on his ideas and inspirations for his collections.
Is minimalism and blue the brand’s key style?
Blue is one of the signature colors of Yuhaku. Since the brand’s founding, we have centered our identity around deep, natural blues inspired by the sky and water, making it a defining element of our expression. However, what we pursue is not simply the representation of color itself, but the embodiment of our philosophy: “bringing color into everyday life.” Through hand-dyeing techniques derived from painting methods, we create organic, nuanced gradations of color, which are then balanced with minimalist design. This harmony is what truly defines the essence of Yuhaku.
What is the source of the leather used in your bags?
For Yuhaku’s hand-dyed collections, we primarily use Italian calf leather for its exceptional color expression and texture. For the interiors, we deliberately use Japanese leather—driven by a desire to support the domestic leather industry and out of respect for the artisans and regions that have upheld this craft.
In our Abstract series, we go further by utilizing “unused stock leather” that has been left dormant at leather wholesalers. By giving new life to materials that would otherwise never reach the market, we transform them into sustainable creations with one-of-a-kind character.
What is the special feature of the bag?
The blue bag in the image I shared is part of yuhaku’s hand-dyed collection, created as an homage to the 100th anniversary of Claude Monet’s passing. Inspired by his iconic Water Lilies, the bag captures the shimmer of light and the transparency of water surfaces, layered directly onto leather. By translating painting into the medium of leather, we aim to let art live within everyday life.
Meanwhile, the Abstract series incorporates traditional forms that have existed in Japan for over a thousand years. These simple, functional shapes are being rediscovered today. When combined with expressive painted surfaces, they embody a fusion of heritage and modernity.
Design-wise, are your shapes more structured?
In Yuhaku, we pursue architectural precision in form. Each piece of leather is planned down to 0.1 millimeters, ensuring both usability and elegance. This meticulous design reflects the intersection of craftsmanship and artistry.
By contrast, the Abstract series adopts softer, more rounded silhouettes. This allows the painted colors to appear more three-dimensional, giving the impression that the artwork is leaping from the surface.
On the left, from Pitti Uomo 2025 in Florence
What appeals to you as a handbag designer?
I see myself not only as a handbag designer but also as an artist. What appeals to me most is the ability to create “wearable art” through the medium of bags—functional objects that carry emotion and artistic expression. My greatest joy lies in bringing art closer to daily life. Offering experiences where people feel moved each time they hold and use a piece. This is the driving force that keeps me creating.