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Fashion

Anderson’s Whimsical Erotic Dior World

Fashion designer Jonathan Anderson took the helm of Dior Menswear after the exit of Kim Jones. The Irish born previously held the position at LVMH sister brand Loewe for 11 years, turning the Spanish label in a profitable achiever for the Paris conglomerate.

The anticipated debut at Paris Fashion Week was palatable.  Dior is a crown jewel, a heritage luxury label with pedigree going back almost 80 years.  Anderson took the mantle with an impulse to shake up the legacy of historical house. 

The newly installed creative head gave certainly lived up to expectations.  A journey into a whimsical world of male tailoring mixed with eroticism.   A happy place of jackets without shirts, flowing long coats and military wear strutting down the runway.  This is not your grandmother’s Dior.  Instead of resigning himself to the design shackles of an iconic brand, Jonathan daringly went head on with a unique vision of color while stirring emotions. 

The best side of the collection are the earthy elements. Including pieces that can combine with everyones wardrobe without the gaudy pretensions gave all the looks personality. If LVMH is looking for another way to infiltrate the streetwear market, this could be the route to take.

The one drawback, the DIOR monogram on certain pieces felt a bit 2018, too targeted at young buyers looking to trade up.  Or perhaps they will wait for the dupes to hit online.

As the first person to head both menswear and womenswear line at the House of Dior since the Christian, there is a lot of weight on the 40-year-old shoulders.   

Next up is Anderson’s Couture Collection in July, followed by RTW in October.

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Fashion

Calvin Klein Returns to the Runway

The most anticipated runway show on the New York Fashion Week calendar, Calvin Klein.  After several years off the schedule the iconic label announced a new collection would be shown from a new creative head.  Veronica Leoni, the Italian designer took charge of the famed brand.  Calvin Klein transcended fashion, from jeans, slogans, scents, ads and commercials, the New York clothier became a part of the cultural landscape. 

Mixing minimalism, athleticism and sensuality a Calvin Klein became one of the top fashion brands in the world.

I’m a sexual person, and that’s reflected in my clothes and my advertisements. Calvin Klein

After selling the company to PVH in 2002, Klein stepped away from the fashion world.  Raf Simons briefly took the helm from 2016 to 2018.  What looked like a perfect fit on paper, soon became a slow-moving clash between creative vision and corporate reality, the Belgium designer left.  After the departure, Calvin Klein stopped presenting runway shows. Instead corporate heads focused on the lucrative under garments, accessories and perfume lines.

Now, Veronica is at bat, the first female to head CK.  The former Celine and The Row designer has the task of breathing new life into the iconic fifty-seven year old clothier. 

I would like to praise the looks but for one reason or another, the feeling of confusion enters my head.   The gender mixed show included shapes and colors that came across as robotic inspired.  The lack of fluid sexuality for a brand known for sex appeal got lost in the modern translation. Where were the bodies? The masculinity. The femininity. 

The streamlined vertical aesthetic took a turn in Leoni’s interpretation. Taken away to the closet replaced with added addendums fitting the times: slouchy jackets with elongated sleeves.

Was this a great collection from Calvin Klein? I expect to see a more concise line the next time.

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Before Tacky Fashion podcast

Recaps on Before Tacky

Before Tacky podcast is looking over the the latest designs from the fashion capitals. Stay tuned for the recaps.

Before Tacky on Fashion Week
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Fashion

Fashion Week Reviews

Of Course Not! We have not forgotten Fashion Week. We will have news, reviews and opinions coming.

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Fashion

Tech + Fashion with Burani

From the Milan Fashion Week, Cristiano Burani gave me a personal fashion tour of his latest collection during his presentation. What struck me, the technical materials. The distinctive pieces made use of specialised fabrics, while remaining fitted for the figure.