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Fashion

Superfine in 2025

The Met Gala, the fashion world’s biggest Red Carpet sailed into New York City on raining day.  The yearly first Monday in May event has morphed into celebrity media circus where A listers throng the stairs for photographers to raise money for the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  The evening presided over by Vogue Editor Anna Wintour placed Black fashion on a glossy stage. This year’s theme, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style was inspired by the African American Fashion.

I think the memo go lost in junk mails.  Instead of being inspired, the looks came across as Gothic. Was there a will reading before or after the party?   Then there was the other extreme of monochromatic white. I guess prints and color made the “not to do” list.

African American fashion has been influenced by a “we are not you” tradition with a sense of pride, dignity while existing in a hostile place.  Clothes were a way of quiet expression against societal oppression.  Dressing up was a form of telling the world we are human beings.

Sanitised Style

The sanitised interpretations of style felt overly calculated, all ready for the global press.  For some it was about the optics, even if the look lacked imagination.  Diana Ross in white with a 5.5 metered train took control or Andre 3000 with a piano on his back felt a little bit too attention seeking.   Co-host, singer and LV menswear designer Pharrell played it safe to the edge of a yawn in a white jacket.  Coleman Domingo showed his flair with an oversized flower on his black and white stripped jacket. Zendaya’s all white suit, fine, but not a knock out look from the Fashion Diva.  On the other end, Teyana got it right with help from Oscar winner Ruth E. Carter.

The Met Gala 2025, inspiring would be a stretch, using the word “trivialising”, too harsh. I could settle for a mild mannered attempt at putting Black Style front and center.

If you are really inspired by Black Fashion, check out reruns of Soul Train on YouTube.  To see live original unrestrained Black Dandy style, attend Pitti Uomo in Florence.

Categories
Fashion podcast

A Luxury Driving Addition

A luxury Before Tacky podcast episode from the past with the Italian based brand The Outlierman. Andrea talked about the ultimate driving addition for the motor dandy.

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Fashion

Unpredictable, but I’m still going to Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo 2025 starts January 14th in Florence Italy.  The bi-annual menswear fashion trade fair showcases brands, style and trends from around the world. The fashion world faces strong headwinds as economies slow down, consumers cut back and geo-politics rattle business.  During a Zoom Call with Director of Communication Lapo Cianchi, the head gave one word, “Unpredictable” is the general outlook in the fashion world. The frank honesty was welcomed.  The business model for fashion trade show is being called into question. Since Covid, the attendance numbers have not recovered.  Even so, Pitti Uomo is a special gathering for men’s fashion lovers. 

With over 800 exhibitors signed, this upcoming apparel forum is an important event on the calendar.  MM6 from French house Maison Margiela hits the runway with “do not follow the rules” looks.   The other designer on the calendar, Satoshi Kuwata, comes to Tuscany with his label Setchu.  According to the brand’s web page “a fusion of two cultures” is the basis of the gender-neutral aesthetic.

Pitti Uomo Center
Center Court at Pitti Uomo’s Fortezza da Basso

Fashion and lifestyle concepts continue to evolve and merge.  Concepts of Community and Active Style of Living have emerged as consumers push more into experiences over brand linkage.  Producers, buyers and creatives seek shared passions with communal relationships and passions for the same ideas and values. 

Knees Up, a new concept store centered around Marathon enthusiasts has a prominent role at Pitti Uomo. The popular retail space located in East London offers fashion, coffee, sportswear and a place to recover from physical training.  Several athletic brands will exhibit with the first-time headliner in Fortezza da Basso.

The same questions linger, but have become more obvious. As customers move away from well-known masstige labels, will retailers take a chance on small brands?  Perhaps in these rattled times, a small bet can pay back big returns.   

Of course, we expect the traditional Dandy pageantry in the center courtyard.  

Pitti Uomo starts January 14th until 17th in Florence Italy. 

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Fashion

Did anyone say “PEACOCK”?

Pitti Uomo January 2023 was all about the menswear but not only on the display racks. A living fashion show goes on around the events with many of “Peacocks” on display in their best threads. Getting a pose for the camera,the always willing.

Categories
Fashion podcast

MENSWEAR Talk

This episode of Before Tacky talk to Lyonnel and Taiwo from London about modern menswear trends. During these times, making style decisions can be challenging. During this podcast we answer some questions.

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Fashion podcast

Before Tacky Podcast Talks Style with The Outlierman

Normally I have a podcast interview office to office. But this time it turned out a bit different. I sent Andrea Mazzuca the link for the podcast. Mr. Mazzuca was in his sports car.

Check out the interview below.

Categories
Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Men from Corneliani

Black and Paper coverage.

Jackets and jackets and more jackets were the center of the 2018 collection.  Five jackets were introduced with chest pieces each with a different inspiration: vintage cars, motorcycles, golf, sailing, and horse riding.

Tailored looks mixed with casual styles were in the mix at the Milan presentation.   Clean silhouettes  were lean yet relaxed.

The quality of the looks were superb but I did not love this collection, I would say “OK”  because it felt more like the inspiration was looking for sources in different directions.  The colors and tones ranged from terracotta to pale to black.

June 17th 2017.

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Fashion

Pitti Uomo from Florence

Pitti Uomo is all about expressive looks and styles.  This is a place where dandy presentation is not only cultivated but appreciated.

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Fashion

Concpet Korea At Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo presented Concept Korea, menswear looks from designer Ordinary People and Byungmun Seo.

I liked Ordinary People more because my taste leans more towards classic styling.  Byungmun was more experimental with shapes, cuts, and silhouettes.  Transforming the body into padded geometric shapes.

 

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Categories
Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Men Ermanno Scervino

 

The always stylish designer used a variety of gentlemen classic dandy materials consisting of tweed and hounds tooth, for his Fall 2017 Collection.  Using thick rich wool Mr. Scervino’s masculine looks were soft, functional, and all very wearable, I especially liked the knitwear.

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