Fashion publications are going through some changes these days.
Can a house have two queens?
Chloe Malle stepped into the role of Head of Editorial Content of Vogue after Editormatrix Anna Wintour sort of gave up the position as Editor in Chief of the fashion template. In an orchestrated attempt to project a smooth changing of the guard, the two power career mothers are holding joint interviews with major outlets. What looked great on paper as a press relations meet and greet may not work in front of the camera. Instead of unity, awkwardness, managed imaging, became cringing. Sitting side by side in soft colored lighting, Malle and Wintour came across as authentic as a real Gucci handbag sold on Temu.
The contrasting styles could not have been more stark. Anna in her signature black sunglasses with armoured coat looked more frayed from battle. At the same time, Chloe took the accessible, relaxed route. While the veteran sat crunched in her chair, the new kid on the block seemed fazed, trying to keep a balance on a tight rope. As social media took stock of the video, two common opinions took shape in the digital spheres. First, the old guard came across dated, a not so modern, out of style personality wearing a calf length dress. Secondly, the duo’s chemistry, or lack of, was the same as smiling at water soaked picnic.
The highlight of the interview was the Brown University Graduate’s wish for better staff pay, more social media. A soft strategy criticism was not going unchallenged. The old command pushed back with a curt retort, “we have the budget”.
The first Vogue issue under the new “leadership” arrives at the newsstands on 24th with Rosalia on the cover.
A strike at Hearst Publications on Friday shook the fashion press. The New York publisher of Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Cosmopolitan and Esquire had a staff walk out over pay. Unlike glossy rival Conde Nast, the 124-year media company managed to escape labor troubles. Over 400 staffers hit the pavement demanding a better contract. The half day action called for more protections against AI, better wages and flexible working conditions.
At a time when Artificial Intelligence is making big inroads in the creative sectors, advertisers are pulling back and print sales continue to decline. Fashion journalism is walking on a precarious runway.